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The discipline of matching food & wine has
yet to be devised although there are a number of classic combinations - Riesling with pork, Bordeaux with beef, Syrah
with lamb, Chardonnay with lobster, Sauvignon Blanc with oysters, etc. Going beyond these
associations, a chef working with a sommelier can achieve meals with
flavor, textures, and a sensation of taste in wine so harmonious
that the dining experience is deemed choreography.
Occasionally wines that are thought to be compatible with certain foods can throw a bizarre
taste combination especially when the classic dishes are served with sauces scented with
unusual fruits, herbs or spices. Here is an insight how the food-wine marriage can be achieved,
especially when serving up eclectic, creative cuisine.
BASIC RULES
The first rule to remember is that the
food of a region will have evolved together with the wine of a
region. If you're cooking traditional dishes that use garlic and
olive oil, an Italian red or white wine will be an excellent
match. For instance, risotto with fungi porcini will marry a Borolo or a Barbaresco. Go to France or Germany and you'll find choucroute
and cassoulet excellent matches with Alsatian Riesling and Corbieres,
respectively. Likewise, brockwurst, bratwurst, and frankfurters will
easily take to Muller-thurgaus while mackeral goes well with
Spanish Sherry.
The second rule is that for other dishes that didn't evolve along
side wines, experimentation and creative boldness in matching
can provide unexpected successes. Champagne and sushi is one and
Voignier and curry is another.
Keep in mind that the basic character of wine is dependent on the grape
variety used to make it, therefore, each wine will have a fruit signature.
For red wines, Cabernet Sauvignons will exhibit
blackcurrant characteristics while Syrahs will often be raspberry
in aroma. Given that, foods that are sauced over with fruit coulis would take
to wines with strong fruit characteristics. Aged
wines, however, would exhibit less fruit flavor and pronounced
bottle bouquet flavors. They will complement strong flavored meats
if the sauce is light. Similarly, sweet & sour dishes or
food basted with honey would call for matches with young Chardonnay
(pineapple, lychee, peaches, butter, etc.) but if one has an aged Riesling,
the matches will be found in foods such as
fried soft shell crab or steamed river fish.
Acid in wine makes wine taste "lively" because of the
sharp sensation in the mouth. Acidic wines generally go well with creamy foods or those cooked in butter
because the sharpness of the acid will "cut" the richness of the cream. A
sweet wine would
usually accompany sweet dishes but if the food is very sweet, the
sweet wine can be overcome and will appeal limpid. As such, it is
very difficult to match chocolate with a Sauterne yet the very same
wine complements a sweet apple tart which has some acidity in it.
ASIAN FOOD
Savory Asian dishes will marry well with sweet
wines but pairing wine with Asian food is not
always an easy task and since so much has been written about this
subject we will be brief on what we feel are the main points. Since
Thai food is served with many courses it is not easy to select one
wine ...if you were to pick a wine for each dish served, you would
have to order a half-dozen different wines, one for the deep-fried
dishes, one for the sweet and sour, one for the bland, one for the
spicy, etc. Also, the table is usually a montage of aromas and tastes,
making it practically impossible to select just one wine. You may elect
to choose beer, soda or water if your meal is a traditional Thai
affair with numerous contrasting dishes served simultaneously.
With all this having been said, we'll still
attempt to match some wines with Thai food. You probably will find
that your taste buds agree with most people
but not everybody will agree on a
choice of wine as everybody
may not like spinach, and if they don't, why should they prefer
similar wine?
The theory of selecting wines for Thai food is
the same as any other cuisine. When starting your meal off with a
spicy dish, such as yam, try a wine that has a spicy and floral
flavored grape. When selecting such dishes look for an acidic and
fruity white wine to accompany your meal and after selecting
different wines you will find a match that you enjoy. As for myself,
I find a Boujalais or young fruity red wine goes well with papaya
salad. If you are enjoying a sweet and mildly spicy curry dish, you
may elect to try a lightly sweet Riesling. When grilling fish on the
barbecue don't forget to have a bottle of your favorite white wine
on hand. No matter which wine you select, if you are comfortable
with the match - then enjoy.
Cabernets seem to be the most favored wine in Thailand and we can
speculate why this is but I believe it is the black fruit such as
blackberries, currants, cassis, plums and black cherries that are
favorite aromas and flavors. Tobacco, leather, vanilla, spice, toasty
oak and hints of mint are also often present.
Grilling, braising and roasting are cooking techniques that lend
themselves to Cabernets. Lamb, beef, pork, game and game birds match
well with these Cabernets.
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