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Tastes like chicken. That phrase has been used to describe everything from quail to frog with varying degrees of accuracy. But not duck. Duck is, in fact, valued for its rich, dark flesh; when prepared well, it's more flavorful than chicken, with a skin that crisps in a way that chicken skin often doesn't. Sadly, home cooks shy away from duck, often because of its fatty reputation (it is, of course, a water fowl, so it needs the protection of the fat). We'll solve that problem, and show how easy it can be to quarter a whole duckling. We'll prepare duck legs by braising them (a great technique for dark meat) and the breasts with a simple sear. We will also make a sauce of ginger and cassis that is a perfect, tempered accompaniment.
Quartering Your Duck
Roasting a whole duck can be problematic: by the time the legs are done, chances are the breasts are dry and the skin is burnt. The easy solution to this problem is to cut the duck into pieces, then reassemble it into a dish.
We'll begin with a Long Island Pekin duck. Contrary to what most people think, because of its name, Pekins do not hail from China -- it's simply the medium-size bird 4-6 pounds that is raised to accommodate most recipes. After unwrapping the duckling, remove the innards (much of this, including the liver, can be saved & used elsewhere) and cut away any excess fat or skin (don't remove too much skin or the remaining flesh will pull back when cooking, exposing the meat).
To begin the quartering, pull the wings away from the body and cut them off at the second joint (they can be used to prepare duck stock).Find the natural seam between the breast cage and the legs. Pull each leg away as you cut through the joint. Twist or cut off the piece of backbone that remains. Continue to remove any excess fat.
Find the natural seam that runs down the middle of duck's back and cut into the breast until you hit bone. Make a long incision down the back, with the knife just to one side of the spine. Angle your knife slightly and slice down and away until you detach the breast meat. Remove the other breast and use the resulting carcass for stock.
Now you've got two legs and two breasts. To prepare the breasts for cooking, score the skin in a criss-cross pattern (don't cut into the meat); this will allow the fat to render out. To clean the legs, trim off any excess fat or skin. Store the pieces in the refrigerator until needed.
To Saute the Breasts
Duck breasts are not as flavorful as the legs and are much fattier. By preparing them correctly, however, you can get a mild, tender product that acts as a nice counterpart to the richer legs. The key is to score the skin so the fatty layer of the breast can render, allowing for both less fat and a crispier skin.
2 duck breasts Salt and pepper.
1. Score the skin in a criss-cross pattern (don't cut into the meat). Season well with salt and pepper.
2. Heat a saute pan over medium-high heat until hot, and place breast, skin-side down (don't crowd the pan or move the breasts around too much). The fat should begin to render. Once it has a nice golden brown, lower the heat and continue to cook slowly. Occasionally, pour off the fat that accumulates in the pan (this can be a little tricky: to remove the fat, hold the meat to the pan with tongs and tip the pan, letting the fat run off into a heat-resistant bowl).
3. Cook the breast on the skin side for 10 to 12 minutes, turn and cook for another 30 seconds. Remove from the heat and let the breasts rest for a few minutes before slicing. After resting, slice into thin (1/4- to 1/2-inch) pieces.
Ginger and Cassis Sauce
| 1/2 cup |
sugar
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Grated zest of 2 oranges and 1 lemon
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Juice of 3 oranges
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Juice of 2 lemons |
| 2 |
shallots, minced
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| 2 cups |
Madeira wine (you may substitute Marsala or a sweet sherry) |
| 2 Tb |
minced fresh ginger
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| 4 Tb |
black currant jelly
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| 1/2 cup |
demi-glace of duck (the strained liquid remaining from the recipe) |
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Salt, to taste
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| 1 Tb |
green peppercorns, drained (don't substitute black or white peppercorns) |
1. In a saucepan over medium heat, caramelize the sugar (don't stir or the sugar will seize up; you can swirl the pan to avoid over-browning, but only after the sugar starts to brown) until totally melted and browned. Remove from heat.
2. Add the orange and lemon juice little by little, and then the zest and Madeira wine (the sugar may seize while adding the juices -- that's ok; it'll re-melt). Simmer over medium heat for 10 minutes, stirring frequently.
3. Add the minced shallots, minced ginger, black currant jelly and the demi-glace. Whisk together and simmer for 15 minutes more, stirring occasionally.
4. Strain sauce through a chinois or fine mesh strainer, pressing down on the solids to extract all the liquid. (You can prepare the sauce to this point and refrigerate or freeze before proceeding.)
5. Season with salt if necessary and add the peppercorns (add fewer peppercorns for a less spicy sauce).
Finishing and Plating the Dish
Separate the drumstick from the thigh with a knife. If you like, "French" the drumstick by scraping away the skin, tendons and cartilage from the bottom of the bone. Lay the drumsticks and thighs over rice (a mixture of white and wild rice is a pleasant accompaniment) and fan out the breast slices. Spoon sauce lightly over everything and serve with greens or vegetables.
Find more Duck Recipes Here:
Duck Quesadilla with Avocado Cream
Duck Leg & Warm Spinach Salad
Plum Ducky Lettuce Wraps
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