When ordering sake, what words should we look for ?

Junmai: Pure rice sake, which means that no distilled brewers alcohol is added after the brewing process; this is the first grade of premium sake.

Honjozo: Shares the space as the first grade of premium sake, but has brewer’s
alcohol added. This is the table wine of the sake world. Like table wine there are great
ones and some are lackluster. Honjozo has a much longer shelf life once open and is
often very nice when gently warmed. While Junmai sake tends to be richer and higher in
acidity, Honjozo tends to be lighter and often has a gentle sweetness.

Ginjo: Means a minimum of 40% polishing to the rice before the brewing process. You
see the word “Ginjo” and you know you are tasting the love, labor, and craft of the master
brewer. Fruity and flowery aromas are typical, as is a very refined, delicate nature. Best
served chilled, some sakes with richer flavor profiles come alive when gently warmed.

Dai Ginjo: Means at least 50% polishing; “Dai” means “big” so just think of it as a Big
Ginjo. This is the pinnacle of the master brewer's craft and definitely the most accessible
sake out there – or at least the most popular amongst Americans. Smooth, aromatic,
and often fruity, it’s great as an aperitif. The aromas and wonderful flavors are great for
stimulating the appetite.

There is a lot of grey between the grades of sake; the fun is trying them all and seeing
which ones you like the best.

Yamahai & Kimoto:
Often seen on menus or bottle it refers to a traditional yeast starter method that produces
gamey, earthy, woodsy flavors and a beautiful acidity. These sakes are often great when
warmed.

Regions

Like wine, sake is diverse in flavor profile from region to region.

Climate, local cuisine, master brewer's guild, and water quality all play a role in the flavor of
sake.

Rule of thumb: Sake starting in the Northeast is a clean and compact expression of the
rice. As you move southwest, the sake opens up and becomes richer, more complex,
and more expansive on the palate.

Like the rest of the modern world many of these regional lines are blurring, but enough still
holds true to make some generalizations.

Five regional names to look for:

Niigata Prefecture: Located in the Japanese Alps, Niigata has the best rice in Japan and
beautiful water. This lends it to a very popular style of sake referred to as "kire," which means
both clean and beautiful in Japanese and perfectly describes the sake from this region. Dry and
light, a sake that is there one second and quickly disappears from the palate.

Shizuoka Prefecture: Among my best sellers despite not being traditionally famous for
sake production, these sakes have a relatively low acidity, which gives them a velvety texture,
great aromas, and an easy drinking nature. Almost always a home-run for first-time sake
drinkers.

Nada: This ward in Kobe city in Hyogo prefecture is the largest brewing center in Japan.
Traditionally referred to as "masculine" sake, they have a great, solid structure and are often
what people have in mind when thinking of a traditional or classic style of sake.

Fusshiimi: This ward in Kyoto City is the second-largest brewing center in Japan. Kyoto
conjures up the images of shrines and history; it’s the cultural heart of Japan. This refinement
comes through in the crafting of sake. This sake is soft, refined, and sometimes slightly
sweet, and is often referred to as “feminine” sake.

Kochi: If you want a dry sake, look no further. Sakes from this prefecture of Japan are
renowned for being “kara kuchi” - dry. The sakes also have a great earthy richness and depth
that is seen throughout the Southwest. Because of there dryness, it is very easy to consume
Kochi sakes in large quantities. This is quite evident locally: Kochi Prefecture has the highest
per-capita sake consumption in Japan.

Each prefecture, city, and hamlet in Japan has its own unique quality. These five are diverse
and easy enough to remember to make you sound like an expert when ordering.

Ordering

When ordering sake by the glass or carafe, check with the server as to how long the bottle
has been open. With Junmai and Honjozo three or four days should be the max. With Ginjo
and Dai Ginjo allow only one or two days. The more complex and aromatic sakes quickly lose
their nose and nuance on the palate. This assumes they are all refrigerated properly.

Sake service:

Wooden boxes: The “masu” is a Japanese cypress box traditionally used for measuring
grain. This is fine for a simple Honjozo or a not-very-aromatic Junmai, but the nose from the
wood ends up masking the beauty and nuance of most premium sake. The aromas from the
wood are great in smoothing out cheaper harsher sakes.

Stemware: Traditional earthen cups are fine, as are shot glasses. My personal preference
is a nice port glass or young white wine glass. With stemware you really get to experience the
nose and the visual aspects are more pleasant. Psychologically, stemware elevates the
status of premium sake to a place next to fine wine.

Sake Tips from Eric Swanson