Step across a marble floor, around a long, curved brushed-metal bar and into the cool glow of blue and violet light that helps to set the mood for a jazz trio with vocalist. A black, pin-holed ceiling mimics twinkling starlight. Interior angles are sharp, with muted colours. The restaurant’s private room occupies an overhead balcony.

The restaurant offers modern French cuisine grounded in the essentials of French cooking methods yet generally lighter overall and with a range of intense flavors. The approach allows the executive chef to source his ingredients from round the world. Guests wanting to sample the menu’s starters might try the appetiser combination platter with foie gras, rock lobster terrine, caesar egg salad, frog’s leg and salmon carpaccio. For soup, cappuccino of white asparagus with grilled North Atlantic scallop, quail egg and caviar provides a wonderfully frothy sip. On ordering the entree whole oven-roasted royal Bresse pigeon on macaire potato with caramelised apples and foie gras reduction, and diners are given the opportunity to inspect the bird before final preparations are made.

There is a solid list of wine with the expected emphasis on French vintages of old world regions, such as, Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Loire. They are also complemented by new world selections.